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Lovage
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Lovage
St. Mary's street,
Edinburgh,
city of Edinburgh,
EH1 1SX
0131 557 5754
Monday closed, Tues-Thurs 12-3pm / 6-10pm, Fri & Sat;12-3pm/6-10:30pm, Sun 12-3pm / 6-10pm

I LOVEaged it

Being modern is scary. Being European, even more, believe me. Surely smoking 20 Gauloises a day, drinking espressos, and eating pizza crust will do the trick ...?

Lovage hit home. Just the right way. It is the undoubtedly excellent balance of Eastern- European perfectionism to seasonality, the simplicity of flavours, and fine British produce.

The menu is to the point, featuring a lot of seasonal vegetables. Squid is always the adventurous choice, something that many restaurants offer, but often too scared to experiment with (normally you are faced with the battered, deep fried truth). This one at Lovage however, was cooked to perfection, seasoned with black pepper and resting on a fine tomato salsa; a starter to melt in your mouth. The inky aioli dots on the side partnered perfectly with the smoothness of the clean tasting squid. The portion was satisfying but left me hungry enough to look forward to the next dish. 

All Italians claim that the best risotto is exclusively from an Italian kitchen, and this used to be my credo. But this was proved wrong by this restaurant's two Polish chefs. Lovage's risotto was prepared creamy, but still dense. Garnished with parsley foam, the mushrooms were perfect, a reminder of autumn and forest walks. The carefully composed balance encouraged  me choose a zesty, yet mineraly Italian white from Campania, to complement the dish. 

Being European means that your Granny's apple pie is sacred, shall only be eaten hot and fresh out of the oven. Far away from home though, Lovage's apple terrine invited me back to my childhood albeit upgraded with some zesty lime 'snow' and garnished with peppery meringues.

The simplicity of the restaurant, the rustic, stonewashed crockery radiated a calmness reminiscent of Nordic restaurants. True to its name, the lovage leaf appears on the menus, and uniforms.
Lovage will leave you feeling light and healthy, and full of flavours, long forgotten. It has a relaxed ambience, simple interior and is tucked away from the city rush but also close to the Royal Mile.  Not only for Europeans and tourists.(R.  Győrfi)

Seasonally lunch menu is offered Tuesday to Sunday, 2 courses starting from £13.95
 






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