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Seasons Restaurant & Bar
New Review
36 Broughton St, ,
Tel: 0131 466 9851
Open Wed-Sun Bar 3pm-1am; Restaurant Lunch & Dinner 12-9.30

Natural harmony
The current scary trend for everything burger is, happily, running in parallel with a brave new world of talented career chefs prepared to risk their reputation on skilful improvisation - but also to do it at an unpretentious, affordable level.  No greasy laminated menus here, or their opposite number of unchanging heavy leather tomes.  Matching the freedom of market choice, your own tiny takeaway scroll tied with string teases you with the pick of today's produce.  Our 3-plate lunch menu at £18.50 highlighted 36 of the ingredients in use.  Highly influenced by Nordic cuisine, they also work closely with foragers to showcase the best wild flavours. 

We were able to opt for vegetarian, fish or meat based for each course. We chose to have paired drinks - for £12, you can choose whether to have wines, cocktails, beer or a mixture.  This versatility makes for easier decisions, without the need to agonise over lists, and we were shown wine bottles (always a bugbear of mine when I have no idea what the wine I'm drinking by the glass looks like in bottle form, should I choose to track it down later, so this touch was welcome).

Good flavour and texture contrasts were abundantly in evidence.  Jerusalem artichoke velouté was topped with artichoke crisps and scattered prettily with thyme & pine oil, though it could have been hotter. Shrimps appeared bound with complementary flavours atop oaty crisps, decorated with dill meringues, herring roe and pickled red onion.  For mains, Mr Fussy used the N word (nectar) in describing his monkfish dish, decorated with sweet pan-fried Brussel sprout halves, a generous scattering of fresh tarragon leaves and an oyster mushroom raviolo, all bathed in a sweetly fragrant monkfish velouté 'beefed up' with smoky haddock, the sweetness contrasting perfectly with the strong mustard-hot garnish of sea radish leaves.  My own main featured both crispy and cream-bound finely-chopped kale, with the main event a tender and flavourful guinea fowl roulade.  Delicate spiced lentils filled out the dish, along with lemon herb yoghourt & pickled shallots.

As a pre-dessert we were presented with the ultimate palate-cleanser of bright sea buckthorn sorbet softened by a base of white choc 'snow' - a cheeky nod to the weather.  We had enjoyed contrasting white wines to suit each of our starters, followed by a rose for himself and a sweet/sour Mai Tai for me, balancing beautifully with fruit the vegetables and game on my main, and decorated with pomegranate seeds which also featured on my pud - a spiced red wine poached pear on a bed of thankfully fine-textured toasted, nutty, seeded granola with chocolate nibs, and milk chocolate ice cream.  A melting dark chocolate slice came with candied beetroot and baby blobs of pumpkin puree with alexander herb leaves, like mini-oranges.  Both puds lent themselves well to the same sweet red Grenache dessert wine. (The Go-Between)

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