Review written August 2009
A culinary wander.

THE WORD STRAVAIGIN MEANS TO WANDER IN GAELIC AND IS VERY APT FOR THIS PARTICULAR RESTAURANT. ALTHOUGH THE FOOD IS MODERN SCOTTISH IT SUCCESSFULLY INCORPORATES GLOBAL INFLUENCES INTO THE MENUS ALBEIT WITH THE EMPHASIS FIRMLY ON USING THE BEST LOCAL PRODUCE (E.G. THE VEGETABLES COME VIA ‘TWO HIPPIES FROM ARRAN’)

We visited for Sunday brunch after a night on the tiles and I can’t imagine a better place for the morning after. We immediately noticed the bloody Mary’s being ferried to various tables and ordered two. They came very spicy and with the required kick. We were able to move on to the rest of the menu.

I chose Gregorz’ fantastic fish pie (£9.95) and my partner chose west coast langoustine stuffed baby squid (£6.95). My pie was the ultimate comfort food and perfect for the onset of autumn. Tuna, swordfish, large prawns and garden peas were presented piping hot in a thick creamy sauce which was made with just the right balance of cheddar cheese and Arran mustard. The peas popped in the mouth and reminded me of Patsy Kensit (a 40 plus cultural reference). The layer of mash on top was not too heavy. The whole effect of the dish was to make me feel as if I had been wrapped in a big, fluffy blanket and sat in front of a roaring fire.

My partner’s squid was equally good. Baby pockets were tender and stuffed with fine quality seafood (McCallums of Troon). It came with a Vietnamese carrot and sesame salad which was deliciously zingy and fresh whilst a kaffir line caramel completed the balance of flavours on the plate.

We couldn’t manage dessert but we watched other people eat beautifully presented plates of ice-cream, parfait and chocolate brownies. The Stravaigin full Scots breakfast complete with Ramsay’s of Carluke black pudding and bacon also looked particularly good. Everyone appeared to be heartily enjoying themselves including the genuinely friendly and helpful staff.

I had forgotten just how good this restaurant is. It will be my first port of call when I am next west although I suspect I will have to book well in advance given its obvious and deserved popularity.